I am tall. That is the fact of it, I am above average high and long in the leg to boot, and though there is nothing wrong with that, it does make getting trousers that fit a right pain in the behind.
I have three pairs of linin trousers from Primark, which to be honest look totally stupid on me. They are way to short, and that makes them look rediculas. “So” I asked myself, “what can I do to make these work for me”.
The Answer: Make them into shorts.
Cream linin trousers after the conversion to sorts, with the cut offs.
This is such a simple process that takes at most half and hour. Which I will explain in this blog post.
The first thing to remember when working with linin is that everything creases it. I always iron anything linin before I start work on it and keep the iron plugged in so it is right at hand when I need it later on.
Before I even started tying to convert the trousers I put them on and got my partner to put a single pin in them just below the knew. Then I took them off and laid them out on the floor. This gave me an idea of how much I was going to need to cut off, and by measuring how far the pin was from the hem line I was able to take the single pin out so that I could iron them.
Next I used my tape measure to measure up to where I would need to cut, in this case thirteen inches from the hem, and placed pins in the leg at regular intervals across the leg. Making sure to measure each time.
Cut off but still to be hemmed
Once I had a line of pins across each leg I cut off the just below the line.
With the pins removed it was now time to put on a new hem. This is the more basic this to do, and I am often surprised by how many people don’t know how to do it.
Here are a few of my top tips:
- Don’t rush.
- Use lots of pins.
- Pin all of one leg and then the other.
- Measure, Measure, Measure.
Folding the fabric back and the back again creates a good solid hem that will not fray. For this project I have put in a one inch hem. By that I mean I heave folded the fabric up one inch and then turned it over one inch again so that I have I can see one inch of fabric. and the raw edge of the fabric is tucked snuggly inside, where it is protected.
Sewing Gauge in use.
I used used a Hemming Gauge or Sewing Gauge, whatever you want to call it to I check that I had made my hem even all the way round, and made sure that it was pinned securely.
In this method I will be using the sew machine to sew the hem which will leave me with a line of visible stitching around the bottom edge. I have tried to sew what I did in pictures, however I used dark blue cotton and that means that it is not always easy to see. I will go further into some of the techniques I use, and the features of my Sewing Machine in a later post.
Turned up and pinned ready for machining.
Uh Oh
I ran the machine around one leg just fine, but as usual when it came to the other leg I hit a snag. The bobbin thread had gotten it’s self in a twist and had court around the bobbin post. (How to sort this out will be gone over in more detail another time)
This courses a great snarl up in the cotton and will prevent the sewing machine from running. It is really bad for the machine., and for your fabric.
Stitch ripping tool
Once cut free from the machine I was able to use the Stitch ripper to take out those loose knotted stitches, I also took out the last few good stitches leaving me with a thread end to tie off with later.
I then started from the last stitch and worked my way round the rest of the leg, making sure to keep the machine as so as possible to help prevent further snarl ups.
Pins out, and turned in the right way again, I ran the iron over them one final time making sure that I had pressed in the new hems. And there we go, one pear of knee length sorts. Which look a lot better than the original to short trousers.
Done